Choosing a Child or Student Violin

 

Rent or Buy?

We do not recommend renting a violin, and as such we don't rent instruments.  While dealers enjoy huge profit margins from rentals, often renters end up paying for an instrument - sometimes many times over - with no violin ownership in the bargain.  If you, as many teachers recommend, make a "deal" with your child so he or she sticks with the instrument for at least a year, the economics of buying a violin just make sense.  (It seems a good lesson in life that nothing is accomplished without some commitment, and quitting easily may not be a good habit to develop.)  If you are an adult student, buying is definately the better way to go.

You should plan to spend $200-$300 or more to start with something of quality for a beginner.  Buy the best you can afford, but you need not spend a small fortune to get something that sounds good, plays easily, and is well-made.

 

Parts of a Violin

Here is a nice chart of the main parts of the instrument:

 

 

Construction

Body:  The body of the violin may be constructed of "laminated" woods, in other words plywood, or made from solid spruce on top and solid maple for the back and sides.  We recommend you avoid laminated instruments altogether, as they are primarily poorly constructed toys and buying one will not save you much money.  All Violin does not stock instruments of laminated materials.

Tuning Pegs & Fingerboard:  Pegs and fingerboards are sometimes built with "ebonized" or painted black, hard woods that will warp, not hold pitch, and wear prematurely.  We do not stock any instruments with "ebonized" parts.

Bridge:  Bridges must not be of the "adjustable" one-size-fits all variety; a well-fitted bridge will ensure the easiest tuning and best sound.  All Violin fits every instrument with a custom bridge.

Tailpiece:  This is where the strings attach near the base of theinstrument, and can be fitted with either four "fine tuners" (see above) for younger or new players, or one fine tuner for advancing students and experienced players.

Also:

Bow:  Bows are made of fiberglass (not recommended!) wood, or carbon fiber.  They must be straight, have real horsehair (very few bows have fake horsehair anymore, but avoid) and must be reasonably well-made, with clean detailing.  We do not carry bows made of fiberglass or those with fake horse hair.

Case:  Cases come in these varieties:  Lightweight - usually foam construction and okay if not too roughed up;   Hardshell - usually plywood and foam, heavier to carry but offering superior protection.  Shapes are known as "Dart" or violin-shaped, and "Oblong" or rectangular.

 

What will I need?

An  instrument, of course, plus a case for carrying and storing, and a bow.  Also, you will need the following:

Shoulder Rest:  Most students now use a shoulder rest to assist them in cradling the instrument as they play.

 

Metronome:  This is the "tick-tock" device that keeps time so a musician may develop good rhythmic skills.

 

Tuner:  To help the student tune correctly; the best now, and very affordable are the electronic type that feature a LED display and may be used even in a noisy environment.

 

Rosin:  These "cakes" are rubbed against the bow hair to allow it to sound the instrument.  Very inexpensive.

 

Music Stand:  Okay, everyone has seen these.

Extra Strings:  Strings do break and it's best to keep at least one extra set on hand.

 

 

 

Choosing the Correct Violin Size

 

Generally, players of smaller stature and children under 12 years of age play on "fractional" instruments; these instruments allow the student to play on an instrument that better fits their size requirements before they move on to a full-sized one, if needed. 

 

To get a rough idea of what size violin is needed (common fractionals are 1/16, 1/10, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 7/8) the following chart is arranged by age:

 

3 years or less:  1/16

4-5 years:         1/10

5-6 years:         1/8

6-7 years:         1/4

8-9 years:         1/2

10-11 years:      3/4

12 years +:       4/4 (full size)

 

To determine the best size for the student after narrowing it down with the above chart, measure from the neck to the mid-palm of the left hand, with the arm extended straight out, horizontal.  The following chart is the minimum size that would be appropriate for each measurment:

 

23 inches:     4/4

22 inches:     3/4

20 inches:     1/2

18.5 inches:  1/4

16.5 inches:  1/8

15 inches:     1/10

14 inches:     1/16

 

All this is important, but perhaps too much is made of sizes of late.  (Classical guitar students often start on full-sized instruments without "injury" and guitars are huge compared to violins.)  It certainly is rarely necessary that growing students go through every size variation on their way to a full-sized instrument. 

 

See new violins HERE.

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